Every family has its holiday menu traditions. Our family celebrates the Réveillon, the night before Christmas with its special menu of Coquilles Saint-Jacques and soupe à l’oignon. Come Christmas day we have a second family meal with a different menu of beef tenderloin with mushroom sauce, Bûche de Noel, and my signature lobster raviolis. They are delicious, easy to make and can be served as a first course or a light meal with a tossed salad. The tarragon cream sauce gives the dish that bit of acidity that complements the rich creamy lobster filling. We did have them on the menu yesterday but you don’t need to limit yourself to Christmas to make them as they are a great addition to any menu year round.
LOBSTER RAVIOLI (makes about 62 raviolis)
- meat from 2 1.5 pound lobsters ( about 14 to 16 oz of meat) chopped
- 1/4 cup scallions chopped fine
- 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 6 ounces cream cheese room temperature
- salt and pepper to taste
- 62 wonton wrappers
In a large bowl mix the lobster meat, scallions, tarragon, lemon rind and juice. With a fork, work the cream cheese into the lobster mixture making sure it is all incorporated and that there are no large lumps of cream cheese by using your hands to lightly mix. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Set aside.
On a large clean working surface lay the wonton wrappers 10 to 12 at a time. Put about 1/2 tablespoon in the middle of each wonton. Fill a small bowl with warm water. Dip your finger or a small pastry brush in the water and wet the edge of the wonton, fold into a triangle, and press the wet edges together sealing the filling inside. Repeat until you have used all the filling. As you make the raviolis, put them on a baking sheet that has been dusted with a bit of cornstarch to avoid the raviolis sticking to each other or the surface. As you will have more then can fit the baking sheet, cover the first layer loosely with a piece of wax or parchment paper also dusted with cornstarch. When done loosely cover with plastic wrap and put in the fridge until ready to cook.
When ready to cook, bring water to boil in a large pot. Gently put the raviolis in the boiling water, 8 to 10 at a time ( do not crowd the pot) for about 1 to 2 minutes. The raviolis come to the surface when cooked. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve in individual shallow bowls or plates with a couple of tablespoons of sauce.
TARRAGON CREAM SAUCE
- 10 to 12 peppercorns
- 2 branches fresh tarragon
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 1.5 cup vegetable broth
- 1 small shallot chopped
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 3 tablespoons flour
- 1/2 cup heavy cream

Put the peppercorn, tarragon, wine, broth and shallot in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and let reduce for about 20 minutes. Pour the mixture through a fine mesh strainer, discard the solids and save the liquid. In another small saucepan melt the butter, add the flour, and cook for 1 minute letting the flour absorb the butter. Whisk in the broth and cook for 5 minutes letting the mixture thicken slightly. Reduce the heat to low and slowly whisk in the heavy cream.
NOTE: The raviolis and the sauce can be made 1 to 2 days ahead. Make sure that you don’t bring the sauce to a boil when reheating it as the cream can separate. Otherwise you can make the sauce and add the cream when ready to serve. As a first course I serve 4 to 5 raviolis per person.
From my kitchen to yours,
CK, la fille du boucher
I never make fruitcake – I have never had to and why should I when my mother makes a great one and I am always sure to get a loaf to bring home come Christmas. Panforte is another story, and it has become a tradition in my family. I was introduced to it when I first moved to Boston in the early 80’s and worked at Rebecca’s on Charles Street. I was familiar with nougat but this variation with its intense citrus chocolate flavor won me over. Getting to be on the team for the Boston Globe Magazine food page on Sundays 8 years ago not only brought a new friend (Adam Ried) into my life, but also a ton of his fool-proof recipes – panforte being one of them.































