Lobster Ravioli with tarragon cream sauce

lobster ravioliEvery family has its holiday menu traditions.  Our family celebrates the Réveillon, the night before Christmas with its special menu of Coquilles Saint-Jacques and soupe à l’oignon.  Come Christmas day we have a second family meal with a different menu of beef tenderloin with mushroom sauce, Bûche de Noel, and my signature lobster raviolis.  They are delicious, easy to make and can be served as a first course or a light meal with a tossed salad.  The tarragon cream sauce gives the dish that bit of acidity that complements the rich creamy lobster filling.  We did have them on the menu yesterday but you don’t need to limit yourself to Christmas to make them as they are a great addition to any menu year round.lobster ravioli ingredients

LOBSTER RAVIOLI  (makes about 62 raviolis)

  • meat from 2 1.5 pound lobsters ( about 14 to 16 oz of meat) chopped
  • 1/4 cup scallions chopped fine
  • 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 6 ounces cream cheese room temperature
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 62 wonton wrappers

In a large bowl mix the lobster meat, scallions, tarragon, lemon rind and juice.  With a fork, work the cream cheese into the lobster mixture making sure it is all incorporated and that there are no large lumps of cream cheese by using your hands to lightly mix.  Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Set aside.lobster ravioli stuffing

On a large clean working surface lay the wonton wrappers 10 to 12 at a time.  Put about 1/2 tablespoon in the middle of each wonton.  Fill a small bowl with warm water.  Dip your finger or a small pastry brush in the water and wet the edge of the wonton, fold into a triangle, and press the wet edges together sealing the filling inside.  Repeat until you have used all the filling. As you make the raviolis, put them on a baking sheet that has been dusted with a bit of cornstarch to avoid the raviolis sticking to each other or the surface. As you will have more then can fit the baking sheet, cover the first layer loosely with a piece of wax or parchment paper also dusted with cornstarch.  When done loosely cover with plastic wrap and put in the fridge until ready to cook.lobster ravioli

When ready to cook, bring water to boil in a large pot.  Gently put the raviolis in the boiling water, 8 to 10 at a time ( do not crowd the pot)  for about 1 to 2 minutes.  The raviolis come to the surface when cooked.  Remove with a slotted spoon and serve in individual shallow bowls or plates with a couple of tablespoons of sauce.

TARRAGON CREAM SAUCE

  • 10 to 12 peppercorns
  • 2 branches fresh tarragon
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 1.5 cup vegetable broth
  • 1 small shallot chopped
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 3 tablespoons flour
  • 1/2 cup heavy creamcooking lobster ravioli

Put the peppercorn, tarragon, wine, broth and shallot in a small saucepan.  Bring to a boil and let reduce for about 20 minutes.  Pour the mixture through a fine mesh strainer, discard the solids and save the liquid.  In another small saucepan melt the butter, add the flour, and cook for 1 minute letting the flour absorb the butter.  Whisk in the broth and cook for 5 minutes letting the mixture thicken slightly.  Reduce the heat to low and slowly whisk in the heavy cream.lobster ravioli

NOTE:  The raviolis and the sauce can be made 1 to 2 days ahead.  Make sure that you don’t bring the sauce to a boil when reheating it as the cream can separate. Otherwise you can make the sauce and add the cream when ready to serve. As a first course I serve 4 to 5 raviolis per person.

From my kitchen to yours,

CK, la fille du boucher

Panforte

panforteI never make fruitcake – I have never had to and why should I when my mother makes a great one and I am always sure to get a loaf to bring home come Christmas.  Panforte is another story, and it has become a tradition in my family.  I was introduced to it when I first moved to Boston in the early 80’s and worked at Rebecca’s on Charles Street.  I was familiar with nougat but this variation with its intense citrus chocolate flavor won me over.  Getting to be on the team for the Boston Globe Magazine food page on Sundays 8 years ago not only brought a new friend (Adam Ried) into my life, but also a ton of his fool-proof recipes – panforte being one of them.panforte

PANFORTE (makes an 8 or 9 inch panforte)

  • unsalted butter for the pan
  • 2 teaspoons plus 1/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
  • 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup all -purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons ground ginger
  • salt and pepper
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  • pinch freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 1/3 cups chopped candied orange peel (8 onces)
  • 2.5 cups hazelnuts, lightly toasted, skinned (wrap toasted nuts in a kitchen towel and rub to remove skins), and roughly chopped (about 12 ounces )
  • 3/4 cup honey
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 ounces bittersweet dark chocolate, melted
  • confectioner’s sugar, for dusting

Set the rack in the middle position of the oven and heat to 300 degrees.  Generously butter an 8 or 9 inch springform pan, line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the paper.  In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons of the cocoa powder and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, dust the pan with the mixture and set pan aside.skinning hazelnutschocolate dusted pan

In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining cocoa powder, remaining cinnamon, flour, ginger, 1/8 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, cloves and nutmeg.  Add the orange peel and work it into a mixture with your fingers, separating and coating the pieces.  Add the hazelnuts and toss to combine.chocolate and orange peel

In a small saucepan, over medium heat and stirring occasionally, bring the honey and granulated sugar to a strong simmer; continue to simmer without stirring until the mixture registers 240 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 51/2 minutes.  Add the honey-sugar mixture and the melted chocolate to the orange-nut mixture and rapidly stir to combine well.  Pour the batter into the prepared pan and with wet hands or the back of a large spoon, press the batter into an even layer.panforte mixpanforte

Bake until the panforte is firm and the surface is glossy, about 35 minutes.  Cool for 30 minutes, remove the sides of the pan and cool the panforte completely before removing the parchment paper.  Dust the top, bottom and sides of the panforte generously with confectioner’s sugar and rub it in with your fingers.  Serve cut in thin wedges.  Wrapped well and stored in an airtight container at room temperature, the panforte keeps for about one month.  You can dust it with more confectioner’s sugar before serving.panforte.2

ADAM’S NOTE:  work quickly once you add the honey syrup to the other ingredients, as the mixture will begin to stiffen almost immediatelypanforte

MY NOTE: I sometimes use orange infused chocolate for a deeper orange flavor.  Both Lindt and Taza make good flavored chocolate.

From my kitchen to yours,

CK, la fille du boucher.panforte with rum

Moules Marinieres

bowl of musselsDuring the holiday season things can get pretty hectic – but I refuse to compromise on eating a nice meal because we are all in a hurry.  Here is a recipe that is a total reward: quick, delicious and in-season ingredients.  You can use it as a first course or as a meal accompanied by a nice tossed salad.  This is a dish from my childhood, my parents would make it in the fall and winter.  As children we loved it!  We were allowed to eat with our hands and have as much bread as we wanted! You will need that bread to soak up all the delicious left over broth in your bowl.mussels

Mussels are pretty much available year-round now but they tend to be plumper in the winter.  I recommend buying them the same day you will cook them, store them in the fridge in a bowl uncovered with NO water so they can breathe.  The ones you buy at the store are farm-raised so you only need to give them a quick rinse before using them.washing mussels

MOULES MARINIÈRES

  • 4 to 5 pounds mussels
  • 2 to 3 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • one large or 2 small tomatoes, peeled, quartered, seeded, and chopped
  • one leek, cleaned, cut in half length wise and sliced thin (white and light green part) or one large onion chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves minced
  • 2/3 cup dry white wine or white vermouth
  • 1/3 cup chopped parsley

In a very large stockpot (large enough so you will be able to move the mussels around as you stir) melt the butter.  Add the garlic and leek or onion and sautée until it starts getting soft, about 3 minutes.  Add the tomatoes and stir until they are soft and release a bit of their juice, another 2 minutes.  Add the cleaned mussels and stir until they have all been covered by the vegetables.  Add the wine or vermouth and cover the pot allowing the mussels to steam.  After 10 minutes check the pot and give the mussels a stir checking at the same time to make sure they have opened. Put the lid back on, turn off the heat and let sit another 3 minutes.  Before serving toss with the parsley.mussels

Transfer the mussels in a large bowl or individual bowls, discarding any unopened mussels. Serve with chunks of crusty bread.bread basket

NOTE:  I am partial to the mussels from Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland.  Should you decide to make the recipe you can also go to the following site and view my video tutorial on how to make the dish.

from my kitchen to yours,

CK, la fille du bouchermussel shells

Oysters!

oystersI will eat oysters over chocolate …and  I mean a good dark chocolate.  If I really want to “treat” myself, I’ll run to the store and buy a dozen oysters and we’ll have them as an appetizer with a nice glass of sparkling white wine.  It’s one of those foods that makes me happy – and fortunately my husband, Philippe, not only feels the same way, but is also the best at chucking! We are very partial to the oysters from Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick:  Malpeque, Caraquet, Raspberry Point, Beausoleil, French Kiss…  So when we visit my family in Montreal we make a stop at our favorite poissonnerie, Odessa, fill up the cart with oysters, and off we go to my parents.oysters at the market

All you need to enjoy your oysters is a proper knife and your favorite sauce. When it comes to the knife you need one with a sturdy blade – a nice point to open the oyster but also flat to get around the shell to open it.  As for the sauce, some use tabasco, lemon, or cocktail sauce.  I am partial to Mignonette Sauce.oyster and sauce

MIGNONETTE SAUCE

  • 1/2 cup red wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
  • cracked pepper

Mix all ingredients in a small bowl and serve with the oysters.

NOTE: only eat oysters in a month with “r” ! Where does that come from? Oysters spawn from May to August and tend not to be as plump and flavorful.  Plus there is the added factor of eating raw seafood in the heat of summer and the fear of getting food born illnesses.chucking oysters

From my kitchen to yours,

CK, la fille du boucher

Persimmon Avocado Salad

persimmonsNowadays with fruits and vegetables available year round, there is something special and wonderful about produce that is only available for a short interval of time each year.  When you stop and really think about it, along with shorter days, cold and snow, winter brings some incredible produce: pomegranates, meyer lemons, chestnuts, quince, and one of my personal favorites: Persimmons.  I go to Russo’s in Watertown and buy them by the case! And then it’s persimmons and yogurt for breakfast, persimmons served with a cheese course, persimmon as a snack instead of an apple, and persimmons in a salad either as a light first course or as beautiful ending to our meal.  Enjoy them while they last! It’s a short and delicious season!

PERSIMMON AVOCADO SALAD (serves 4) I count 1/2 persimmon and 1/4 avocado per person

  • 2 fuyu persimmons, blossom removed and peeled
  • 1 avocado
  • 1 cup baby arugula
  • 1 recipe of lemon vinaigrette or your favorite

Cut the persimmons in half and slice each half into 1/4 inch pieces.  Quarter the avocado, peel and slice into 1/4 inch pieces the short way.

On a platter, spread the baby arugula as a base and scatter the persimmons and avocado.  Drizzle with half the vinaigrette and serve immediately.persimmon avocado salad

NOTE:  there are 2 kinds of persimmons (1) Fuyu: short, firm, round, crisp, and better suited for salads… (2) Hachiya : longer and “pointy” shaped that needs to get very very soft to be eaten.  You can just dig in with a spoon and eat the flesh which has a slight honey taste.

From my kitchen to yours,

CK, la fille du boucher

Poached Quince

quinceQuince: the stylist in me loves their shape, their color, and the way they are overall so photogenic.  The cook in me loves their taste and their aroma as they ripen. Not quite like a pear, not quite like an apple … I can’t resist buying them, they are even so beautiful as an arrangement on the dining room table.  Last week I used them as a centerpiece on my Thanksgiving table; this weekend, they are ready for poaching.  I like them warm or room temperature, on their own with a bit of the poaching liquid or with granola and yogurt in the morning.

POACHED QUINCE

  • 3 large ripe quince peeled, cored and cut into 1/2 inch slices
  • 4 cups water
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/3 cup honey
  • one vanilla bean cut lengthwise
  • one half lemon
  • 1 stick cinnamoncut and peeled quince

In a large saucepan bring the water, sugar, honey, vanilla, lemon and cinnamon to a low boil.  In the meantime peel the quince, quartered and cored.  Quince are a little “tougher” than pears or apples so make sure you get rid of all the fibers around the core while being careful not to cut yourself in the process.

Once cut, transfer the quince to the boiling mixture.  Bring to a simmer and cover.  Simmer on low for about an hour or until the quince is tender, testing by piercing with a knife.poached quince

Let cool to room temperature and serve.  Refrigerate up to a week.

NOTE:  The poaching liquid makes a delicious base for cocktails.

From my kitchen to yours,

CK, la fille du boucher

Decorating The Thanksgiving Table

pumpkin centerpieceFor many,  along with having the Thanksgiving meal ready there is the added stress of setting a pretty table.  I personally like my table simple and on a small budget.  It’s fine in the summer when the flowers are abundant in the garden but in November? No worry, you can still bring the outside in and here are a few ideas.evergreens and roses

Go take a walk in the backyard or in the woods and cut small branches of evergreen: boxwood, pine, cedar.  They will make a great base or filler for you centerpieces. holiday spray rose centerpiece

Mix those greens with spray roses bought at the supermarket.  Those inexpensive flowers are one of my favorite: they come in a variety of colors and with their small cluster of roses you feel you get a lot for your money.  Cut them down and arrange them in small glass, ceramic or silver containers.persimmons

This time of year, grocery stores offer a variety of beautiful fruits .  Arranging them on pedestals, bowls or plates and garnished with greens will dress up the table, and provide the added bonus of being able to eat them the next day.  You can play with pomegranates, quince, kumquats, baby pears, apples or pumpkins.holiday herb centerpiece

Don’t limit yourself to flowers – arrange a variety of herbs in small glasses or jelly jars.

While waiting for your guest, transform your cocktail setup into a centerpiece: champagne glasses and bottle on a pretty tray.holiday champagne center piece

For a festive touch, fill small shallow bowls with cranberries, kumquats or chestnuts; add a small votive candle.

holiday centerpiece with candlesLet your imagination run! The combinations are endless!chestnuts

NOTE:  Don’t throw that turkey carcass away! My next post will be about making turkey stock.quince

From my kitchen to yours! Happy Thanksgiving!

CK, la fille du boucherholiday fruit centerpiece